|Weathering process begins with chipped paint courtesy of the 'salt technique'|
Before the weathering process could even begin I was faced with a problem. I needed to apply a layer of water to help salt adhere to the model kit's surface. Unfortunately the primer coat was too smooth thus causing the water to form droplets that just rolled off the surface. To combat this, I applied a coat of matt varnish which allowed a layer of water to remain on the surface. Ideally, the matt varnish should've been applied in a fine mist coating using an airbrush. But I didn't have one so I hand brushed it instead. Some pooling of the varnish occurred but thankfully it self-leveled after drying.
|Polyurethane matt varnish had a dual-purpose of protecting the primer coat and allowing a layer of water to adhere to it|
|Using just a hand-held brush to apply the varnish, it wasn't surprising to see some varnish pooling at certain parts ...|
|... so thankfully Vallejo's excellent polyurethane matt varnish self-leveled when dry|
|An air brush would've produced a fine mist coating vs the pooling issues when using an ordinary brush|
|Although the matt varnish self-levels, it's still prudent to brush on the varnish in as thin a coat as you can manage|
After the varnish had dried overnight, I sprinkled a combination of coarse and fine grain salt on the Rhino transport whose surface had been moistened with water. While the grains were still fairly wet they were manipulated into required shapes using a toothpick, and then left to dry overnight.
|After a thin coat of water was applied onto the Rhino, both coarse and fine salt was sprinkled onto it|
|Care should still be taken after the salt has dried and stuck as it can easily be shaken loose|
Once the salt had had the chance to dry overnight, it sticks to model kit albeit in a precarious way. The salt adheres strongly enough that you can spray paint on without blowing too much salt off the model kit. However, the salt can be easily brushed off the model kit using simple abrasive tools.
|As this was a Nurgle/Death Guard Rhino, a pale green hue (Tamiya AS-29 Gray-Green IJN) was chosen for the basecoat|
|Pressure from the Tamiya spray can was just right and not too strong that it could dislodge the grains of salt|
|At this stage the painted grains of salt looked liked pustules ala Nurgle infection|
With an old toothbrush in hand, I proceeded to brush off the grains of salt thus chipping the paint. in addition, I also used a toothpick to create some variations in the chipping effect e.g. long thin streaks of chipped paint (most noticeable on the top/roof of the Nurgle Rhino). I wasn't too particular in removing every last bit of salt from the surface as any grain of salt left underneath the basecoat looked very much like pustules which fit in very well with the Nurgle theme of disease and death.
|An old toothbrush and a toothpick were the abrasive tools of choice used to dislodge the grains of salt|
|Areas where the salt was dislodged displayed a chipped paint effect|
|On the whole, I'm pretty happy with how the chipped paint looked|
Of all the sides of the Nurgle Rhino transport, it is the top/roof paint job which looks arguably 'over-chipped'. It should hopefully look much better after it had undergone further weathering.
|Red oxide primer contrasts well with the pale green basecoat colour|
|Chipping effect was a tad overdone on the top/roof of the Nurgle Rhino|
|Bottom of the Nurgle Rhino, chipped paint and all|
This is barely the beginning of the weathering process for the Nurgle Rhino. So much more remains to be done. To prevent the situation from overwhelming me, I plan to break up the weathering process into small manageable chunks such as the salt technique you see here. Up next will be additional painting around the chipped areas to further accentuate the rust effect. I'll be doing that concurrently with two other projects so I certainly have my hands full. But it's a happy kind of busy so I'm good.